About Stone Veneer

About Stone Veneer


The Advantages of Natural Thin Veneer….

Thin veneerThe Thin stone veneer is lighter in weight, faster to install, and in many cases — more economical to use than traditional, full-dimension stone veneer.The lighter weight of the thin stone means that masons can haul and install it that much faster than the heavier, full-depth stone. Advantages of Natural Thin Veneer….

Also, thin veneer can be essential for bringing stone to non-load bearing walls, as well as help architects and engineers in the overall design.

“One of the advantages of the thin veneer is that yes, it’s less weight and a lot of times weight is a problem. If we’re veneering an entire two-story house, how that weight is distributed throughout the building, projects down the walls and into the footings that’s the engineer’s nightmare and we like the thin veneer because of that,” say’s Mark Presta

Obviously, another main advantage of thin stone veneer is how much or should we say, how little — space it takes up. Traditional, full-dimension stone masonry can range anywhere from 4 inches and up depending on the structure and building needs. Therefore, thin stone’s slimmer profile, ranging from 3/4-inch to two-inches, can be a great alternative for projects with limited space or other special considerations!

Masonry can be replaced by so many different materials on the skin of the home , So they have to be more cost-effective. We figure out better ways of keeping masonry materials on the skin of these homes.

Thin Natural stone veneers are the way.


Thin Veneer Installation

A Solid Footing

Whether you are veneering a garden wall or a cinder block foundation on a building, it is important that the veneer rest on a solid footing. If the structure’s existing footing extends at least 4″ beyond the wall’s face, you can simply flash the footing and lay the veneer over the existing footing. If not, you can either extend the existing footing to support the veneer or bolt a special steel angle to the wall at ground level and lay the veneer on the angle.

If you elect to extend the footing, check with your local building authorities to obtain specifications for making the footing extension and tying it to the existing footing.

Preparing the Wall Surface
Unsealed Masonry – Stone veneer can be installed directly over cleaned, unsealed masonry walls using wall ties fastened to the existing structure. Fasten the wall ties with masonry nails or masonry screws. Install one wall tie for each square foot of wall surface to be covered.
Sealed Masonry – If you can sand blast or otherwise remove the sealer, install the veneer as you would over unsealed masonry.
If the sealer can not be removed:
1. Use masonry nails or masonry screws to fasten metal lath to the existing structure.

2. Apply a scratch coat of mortar mix (at least 3/4″ thick) to the metal lath. Be sure to work the mortar mix into the lath.

3. As the mortar begins to set, make horizontal grooves at least 1/4″ deep in the scratch coat and allow the coat to set completely. The grooves provide a good bonding surface for the mortar used to adhere the stones.

Wood – Nail roofing felt to the wood to create a vapor barrier. Then apply metal lath and a scratch coat of mortar as above.
The scratch coat of mortar provides a good masonry surface for laying the stone.

Laying the stone:

1. Working gradually down a very long wall will make the process go much more smoothly. If you are laying stone over the original footing or an extended footing, install flashing over the footing to keep water from flowing back under the new stone.

2. In a wheelbarrow or mud box, mix a bag of mortar to roughly the consistency of mashed potatoes.

3. Moisten the surface of the wall to prevent the water in the mortar from being wicked away too quickly. This will help create a stronger bond between the fresh mortar and the wall.

4. Apply a thin coat (1/4″ to 1/2″ thick) of mortar to a small section at the bottom of the wall. Butter the back of a stone with about 1/2″ of mortar.

5. Press the stone into the bottom of the wall. Wiggle the stone slightly back and forth until it seats against the wall. Take care not to press all the mortar mix from between the stone and the wall.

6. Continue laying the bottom course to the end of the wall. Note that as you lay large stones, it may be necessary to place smaller stones in gaps and along uneven edges to fill in the wall. It may also be necessary to use the brick chisel to cut stones at the ends of the wall. Selecting good stones for the edges before you start on the wall reduces the need for chiseling and makes your work look more natural.

7. Apply the next courses in the same manner as the first. Be sure to interlock each course so that the joints are staggered from course to course.

8. If you are veneering the foundation of a structure, flash the top course to keep water from getting behind the stone. If you are veneering a garden wall, stop slightly short of or even with the top of the wall. Cap the wall with stone laid horizontally across its top.

9. Once the mortar has hardened some, but not completely set, use a jointer or the point of your trowel to dress the joints.

Clean any mortar from the face of the stones with a damp rag and a stiff-bristled brush. Do not allow mortar to set on the face of the stone.

Tools & Materials

· Brick trowel
· Wheelbarrow or mud pan
· Hoe
· Masonry chisel
· 4’’ Grinder with diamond blade
· Brick hammer
· Masonry jointers
· Drill/ driver and bits
· Dust masks
· Goggles
· Gloves

Masonry nails or masonry screws
* Wall ties
* Metal lath
** Galvanized roofing nails
** Roofing felt
*Materials needed for laying stone over unsealed masonry or wood.
** Materials needed for laying stone over wood only.